Kitchen ingredients jumble words11/11/2023 Today, Shinsekai is rough around the edges but perfectly safe, though it does help to have a guide like Ikegami, who leads culinary tours of the area for Arigato Travel. But a fire destroyed it during World War II, and the new world began a slow slide into an underworld. The name means New World, an optimistic prophecy for a Western-inspired future epitomised by Tsutenkaku Tower, which at 210 feet was the tallest building in Asia when it was constructed in 1912. None of that is untrue, particularly in and around Shinsekai. Here’s what you’ve probably heard about Osaka - if you’ve heard anything at all, given Tokyo’s and Kyoto’s decades of tourism dominance. Ikegami eyes the second helping on my plate and gently reminds me, “We have a lot more to eat.” As is Osaka.Īdd too much okonomiyaki to the list. Over the next 20 minutes, she periodically reappears to add shrimp, steak, and pork flip the pancake and paint it with mayo and a sweet, tangy brown sauce fry up a sunny-side egg to slide on top and finally, bury it all in dancing bonito flakes. With the muscle memory and blasé demeanour of someone who has done this ten thousand times, our server dumps a bowl of shaved cabbage and batter onto the hot, hissing grill built into our table. Seated by a rain-lashed window, my guide, Noriyuki Ikegami, and I are safe inside Tsuruhashi Fugetsu, a chain specialising in another Osakan treasure, okonomiyaki. Ursula-san already clutches takoyaki (octopus fritters) and kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) in her white-suckered tentacles but, unsurprisingly for a native Osakan, she’s still hungry.īetween us is a checkerboard lane and a monsoon. She lords over the second floor of a restaurant in Osaka’s Shinsekai quarter, a pastiche of Paris and Coney Island erected in the early 1900s, neglected by the midcentury and respected today for its retro-futurist architecture and first-class fast food.
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